About Iain McKenzie
Iain has over 15 years experience of working in climbing walls and was the Manager of The Tower Climbing Centre in Leicester from 2005 – 2015.
Currently he is a freelance contractor (3 days per week) as the Technical Officer for NICAS (National Indoor Climbing Award Schemes).
Within his role as the Technical Officer for NICAS, Iain is responsible for dealing with all the technical queries, enquiries, resources and the delivery of inductions for both NICAS (National Indoor Climbing Award Scheme) and NIBAS (National Indoor Bouldering Award Scheme).
The Tower Climbing Centre made up part of Leicester City Councils Sports Services Department and he had full responsibility for the running of the climbing centre including managing budgets, staffing/staff training, maintenance, procurement and purchasing.
Iain has been involved with the BMC (British Mountaineering Council) and between 2004 and 2012 he sat on various committees, these included;
BMC National Council – Area Representative
BMC Midlands Area – Chairman
BMC Competition Committee – Chairman
BMC Climbing Wall Committee – Member
As a member of the Climbing Wall Committee Iain was involved in the writing of the ‘BMC Climbing Wall Manual’ which is recognised as being the essential guide for anyone planning to build, manage or use a climbing wall. Aswell as a manager and officer, Iain coaches climbers from grass roots right through to elite climbers. The Tower Youth Climbing Team was one of the first ‘squads’ or ‘academy’s’ in the country, set up in 2002 with a view to long term development, currently his team have competitors operating at the highest levels both Nationally and Internationally, between them they have over 10 national titles and top 5 finishes in International Competition.
April 2008 – Present
Technical Officer (NICAS & NIBAS)
The National Indoor Climbing(/Bouldering) Award Schemes are administered by the Association of British Climbing Walls Training Trust (ABCTT) and is recognised by the British Mountaineering Council, the Mountaineering Council of Scotland and the Mountaineering Council of Ireland
British Mountaineering Council
November 2014 – Present
Delivering the BMC FUNdamentals Workshops in climbing walls around the country, mostly within easy reach from the East Midlands.
Iain currently sits as Chair of the BMC Competition Committee, details of the Comps Com can be found here.
The Tower Climbing Centre
February 2001 – April 2015
The Tower Climbing Centre is the East Midlands highest and most extensive climbing facility. It offers an open door to a new challenge and adventurous life, for all ages and all abilities.
As a Climber
Starting at the age of 14, Iain has over 25 years experience as a climber this has included
- Traditional Climbing
- Sport Climbing
- Deep Water Soloing
- Winter Climbing
- Ice & Mixed Climbing
- Dry Tooling
People like lists so here is Iain’s
V5is a Bouldering grade Iain is happy to jump on.
Favourite Boulder problem is Crescent Arête (V2), Stanage, Peak District.
E4is a Trad grade Iain is happy to onsite.
Favourite Trad route is Edge Lane (E5 5c), Millstone, Peak District.
F7ais a Sport grade Iain reckons he can flash.
Favourite Sport route is Marlina (F7b+), Cave Crag, Dunkeld.
V5is a grade Winter Grade Iain is confident on.
Favourite Winter route is Orion Direct (V, 5), Orion Face, Ben Nevis.
M9is a Mixed grade Iain will get up.
Favourite Mixed Climb is Rodeo (M8), Pont Rouge, Quebec.
This is not a list of hardest ascents but a list of grades that Iain is comfortable operating at, his favourite climbs are all ones that he has fond memories of for one reason or another.